In the bustling world of Indian cuisine, few dishes are as iconic and beloved as the humble idli. These soft, fluffy rice cakes are a staple in South Indian cuisine and have won hearts across the globe. But did you know that one popular variation, the rava idli, has a fascinating backstory that traces its origins to a time of scarcity and innovation during wartime?
A Culinary Journey Back in Time
To understand the genesis of the rava idli, we must travel back to the 1940s, a period marked by the Second World War and its accompanying shortages. The war brought about significant supply chain disruptions, impacting everything from essentials to food ingredients. For many, the lack of certain items meant that creativity in the kitchen became a necessity.
In the city of Bangalore, then known as Bangalore, the situation was no different. Among the culinary stalwarts of the city was a small but esteemed restaurant named MTR (Mavalli Tiffin Room). Founded in 1924 by the Udupi brothers, MTR was renowned for its traditional South Indian fare, including the quintessential idli. However, as the war tightened its grip on resources, ingredients like rice and urad dal (black gram) became increasingly scarce.
A Creative Solution to a Pressing Problem
With rice and urad dal becoming difficult to obtain, MTR’s founders faced a challenge: how to continue serving their popular idlis without their traditional ingredients. Innovation was the only way forward. Enter the rava idli—a clever variation that would go on to become a classic.
The solution was to use rava, or semolina, a versatile ingredient that was more readily available compared to rice and urad dal. Semolina, made from wheat, was an excellent substitute that allowed the restaurant to maintain the essence of idli while adapting to the constraints of the time. The recipe involved mixing rava with yogurt, baking soda, and a few spices, resulting in a dish that retained the idli’s signature texture and flavor but with a distinct twist.
The Birth of a New Classic
The rava idli quickly became a hit among the restaurant’s patrons. Not only did it solve the problem of ingredient shortages, but it also introduced a new flavor profile that was embraced with enthusiasm. Its light, airy texture and subtle, tangy taste made it a favorite among regulars and newcomers alike.
As the years went by, the rava idli evolved from a wartime improvisation into a celebrated dish in its own right. MTR’s rava idli gained popularity beyond Bangalore, becoming a staple in South Indian cuisine and appearing on menus across the country and even internationally.
Having lived in Malaysia for over four years, there are still moments when I feel a pang of homesickness so intense that I find solace in a visit to Kuala Lumpur’s Little India neighborhood. There, at MTR, I can indulge in a crisp, hot masala dosa, and each visit leaves me with a comforting taste of home.
MTR, short for Mavalli Tiffin Rooms, celebrated its centennial this year. Founded in Bengaluru in 1924 by the Maiya brothers, it began as a modest eatery serving soft idlis and aromatic filter coffee in a quiet residential area. Over the decades, MTR has evolved from a local favorite to an international phenomenon, with outposts spanning Bengaluru, Karnataka, Dubai, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, London, and Seattle.
Managing partner Hemamalini Maiya highlights the restaurant’s success: “Our focus remains on food quality and hygiene, ensuring consistency across all our locations. Regardless of where they dine, customers can expect the same high standard.”
For many loyal patrons, visiting MTR is a cherished tradition. Hemamalini notes, “The original Lalbagh Road restaurant retains its nostalgic charm from 60-70 years ago. For some, dining at MTR is like visiting a second home, a ritual they look forward to.”
This commitment to quality and consistency is a key reason why MTR remains popular both in India and abroad. Dubai resident Chaitali Patel shares, “After dropping my daughter at dance class, I enjoy a walk to MTR to savor a moist rava idli or a cup of coffee in a setting that feels like home away from home.”
The Bur Dubai branch, established a decade ago, continues to delight with favorites like rava idli and chandrahara, a special sweet available only on weekends. These dishes reflect MTR’s ability to innovate and adapt through challenging times, from World War II to national upheavals.
During the early 1940s rice shortage, MTR co-founder Yagnanarayana “Yagnappa” Maiya ingeniously replaced rice with semolina to create rava idlis. This dish has since become a global favorite. Hemamalini, from the third generation of the MTR family, shares anecdotes about her grand uncles and father, Harischandra Maiya, who took over the restaurant. She recounts how her grand uncle’s attempt to name a new dish after a French pastry failed until Yagnappa cleverly renamed it after a popular movie.
Yagnappa’s European culinary experiences led him to introduce stringent hygiene standards, including the sterilization of cookware and public health pamphlets. He even allowed customers to view the kitchen, a revolutionary move at the time.
Hemamalini reveals that while her father introduced lunch and dinner options, the core menu has remained largely unchanged. “We focus on maintaining the signature quality of our dishes. Our spice mixes, like sambhar powder and rava idli mix, are sourced from our original Bengaluru location to ensure consistency.”
MTR’s venture into instant foods and snacks further established its market presence until it sold that segment to a Norwegian company in 2007. Looking ahead, the restaurant plans to expand further, with new locations in Canada and the US. The irresistible aroma of filter coffee has drawn customers for a century and continues to do so.
A Legacy of Adaptation and Innovation
Today, MTR’s rava idli is a testament to the resilience and creativity of chefs who faced the challenges of wartime shortages with ingenuity. The dish not only highlights the resourcefulness required during difficult times but also showcases how necessity can lead to delightful culinary innovations.
So, the next time you enjoy a plate of rava idli, take a moment to appreciate its rich history. It’s not just a delicious treat; it’s a symbol of adaptability and ingenuity born from the trials of a bygone era. And as you savor each bite, remember the story of how a century-old restaurant turned a challenge into an opportunity, leaving a lasting legacy in the world of food.
